What actually is the Kremlin? Why was Peter so great, and Ivan so terrible? Does a hand painted doll really symbolise Russia, and can the average Russian really drink a bottle of Vodka a week? These were a few questions to which Andrew Saunders had no idea what the answer was, when he booked his month long language course in Russia
In the midst of my year abroad in Japan, I decided if I was going to learn another language, this was the summer to do it. So when my internet browser hit upon Russian, and indeed Moscow, I decided it was about time I became better informed about post Soviet Union life.
Before I travelled, I had heard stories of lunatic taxi drivers, roguish policemen, a pickpocket infested metro system, and a capital that was subject to numerous bomb threats. So when I boarded my flight to Moscow, a few days after the atrocious terrorist attacks in London, I was a little nervous to say the least. Surely I should have been making the two hour trip to a sumptuous beach in Spain, not the four hour one to a month of anguish and misery!
Armed with my two words of Russian, and a somewhat apprehensive state of mind, I touched down at Moscow's Domodedovo airport. After negotiating my way through a somewhat officious looking passport control, I met up with my airport transfer driver, and I was overjoyed to see another extremely nervous looking student - I wasn't the only one who had this silly idea!
Now the first thing you'll undoubtedly learn if you visit Russia, is that apparently, you can drive anything, in any way you like on the Russian roads. It is quite common to see two cars drive alongside each other in one lane, speed limits are there, but quite frankly, they might as well not be, and with the number of accidents I saw, apparently just about anyone can hop behind the wheel and go for a spin. Also, by watching the various vehicles on my journey to my host family, I was able to get my first glimpses of just how wide ranging the distribution of wealth is in Russia. For every brand new Mercedes that sped up the outside lane, there was a struggling clapped out Lada in the inside one. This is something, which is so evident across Russia, where new opportunities have arisen for some, and personal fortunes have swelled, but for others, a more poverty-stricken life is what they've been left with since times have changed.
Before I talk about the various fantastic places I visited, I have to mention the superb metro system that Moscow has. Moscow is supposedly the 4th most expensive city in the world (behind Tokyo, London and Osaka), and indeed it had that feel in most places I went. But travelling around by metro, is an absolute bargain. For around 500 roubles, you can buy a ticket that allows you to make sixty journeys, with no limit on how long the journey is, or how many changes you make. It is also very quick and efficient, although on this too, apparently drivers have no speed limits to adhere to.
The first place I visited, was of course, the Kremlin. The Kremlin, meaning fortress, was first constructed in the 1150's and was gradually built up over many centuries. High walls, 2.25km long enclose it, and on the outside of these walls, Red Square, Alexandrovsky garden, and Moscow River can be found on the east, west, and south sides of the Kremlin respectively.
Within the walls are many cathedrals and towers, but the area, which captured my imagination the most, was the splendid Armoury museum. Some of the most breathtaking royal treasures can be found here, including Faberge eggs, gold and silver gifts from visiting ambassadors, royal dresswear, and the phenomenal royal carriages and sledges that have to be seen to be believed. My tour around the whole Kremlin took 3 hours, and by the end, I was absolutely exhausted, but if you do only one thing in Moscow, it must be to visit the Kremlin. Also on my first week in the city, I had the pleasure of taking a cruise along Moscow River. This offers some fantastic views, including many of Stalin's seven sisters (like Moscow University), various cathedrals, Gorky Park, and the Kremlin itself.
Another place that I enjoyed immensely was Izmaylovsky market. Here you can purchase traditional Russian souvenirs such as Matrioska's, old Soviet propaganda, arts and crafts, and very cheap DVD's. If you bargain hard, you can come away with some great buys.
My host family throughout my stay, were absolutely superb (especially considering my Russian was pretty limited), and one of the many things I was privileged enough to do during my time in Russia, was spend a weekend at their 'dacha' (meaning Summerhouse). A dacha can be anything from a small wooden hut, to a huge house (these too reflect the huge differences in wealth in Moscow), and basic amenities such as running water and electricity are not always present. However this hasn't prevented it from becoming a popular trend for Muscovites, for whom these homes, provide the perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city. The small plots of land also provide another benefit. Families often grow vast amounts of fruit, which can either be picked and stored for the winter months, or sold in markets back in the centre of Moscow, providing an a additional income.
A trip to Moscow would not be right without a trip to the theatre, and although the Bolshoi is currently being renovated, there are many great operas and plays, which can be seen. I went to see the Russian version of a worldwide musical, and although I didn't understand a thing, it was a very enjoyable experience.
Beggars are commonplace in Moscow, like most capital cities, but I definitely felt sorry for some who have no choice but to sit in Metro stations day in, day out, just trying to get enough money to be able eat and survive. However beware, some are not so genuine, and try to exploit this situation by concocting various life threatening stories, in order to cheat people out of their money. In one instance I saw a man, have his son on his shoulder, and show x-rays to metro passengers, claiming him to be seriously ill. But seconds after the train had left the platform, the boy suddenly woke up, looked full of life, and the man was counting his money.
The Militia are also people to be avoided. It is common practice for these 'law upkeeping' people to ask to check your passport, and then, even if it is absolutely fine, fine you. A friend of mine was taken away for three hours and eventually had to pay 300 roubles even though her passport was absolutely fine. In class one day, we joked who would you rather have in your apartment, a burglar, or a member of the Militia. This is certainly an element, which makes a trip to Moscow undesirable.
However in my time in Moscow, I feel I learnt so much, both linguistically, and culturally, and without a doubt I thoroughly enjoyed my month in Russia. It is country very different from other parts of Europe, and you certainly have to be alert most of the time, but the cultural things it has to offer far outweigh the negative aspects, and hopefully in a few years time, it will become more tourist friendly.
Andrew Saunders is from London, England and studied Russian at Liden and Denz Language School in Moscow. He is currently studying Business Studies and Japanese at Cardiff University, Wales
